A book review in today's New York Times offers a less than glowing assessment of Times reporter Michael Moss's book Salt Sugar Fat. The reviewer calls the book "a bit wearying," says "this is not a new story," and faults him for failing to consider "the ferment now bubbling away in America's food culture," such as "the boom in farmer's markets, the elevation of the chef, the proliferation of urban food trucks, the return of the artisan, the growth of craft beer at the expense of big corporate brewing, the admittedly high-end but notable success of Whole Foods, even the appearance of oatmeal and better coffee in McDonald's, not to mention the appearance of healthy grains and nonfat Greek yogurts and myriad global-pantry products on Wal-Mart's shelves."
The review concludes, "Moss's book is a little like a plate of processed cheese: fresh, in its way, but behind the culinary curve." Ouch.
The review can't be much consolation to Times readers who were served this "processed cheese" — an article adapted from the book — as the cover story in the February 24 New York Times Magazine. The next time the Times plans to serve up some wearying, not new, behind the curve journalism, it might want to warn readers before the fact, not three weeks afterward. That way readers can spend their time doing something else instead.